Tuscany: A Scent of Leather in the Air

Itinerary: from Pisa to Florence, about 350 kilometres

Duration: 3 days to spend in the workshops

Equipment: comfortable clothing, a windbreaker jacket, scarf, backpack, space for souvenirs

Green hills, rows of cypresses, farms houses and city squares that tell centuries of history; but also, the blue sea, great food, equally great wine and lots of excellent craftsmanship – Tuscany is the right place to discover the true heart of Italy, especially on two wheels, cruising under the sun. So, prep the Vespa; you’ll be rolling along the Tuscan roads from Pisa to Florence, with an itinerary characterized by leather, old books, leather bags and jackets, all hand-made by skilled artisans – observe it all and contemplate a purchase or two for your own wardrobe.

Start in Pisa, the city known worldwide for its tower which began to lean right after its completion in 1372. Ignore the Camposanto (a monumental graveyard) which is usually crowded with tourists and park your Vespa just outside the city centre and reach the Santa Maria district, where leather tanning has been a tradition for over 800 years. Tanners’ guilds were located here as early as 1200 and branches of Mordella (a green plant rich in tannin) were used like a whip to tan leathers by immerging them into the River Arno. Today, some of those traditions are still preserved and can be found at Max il Cuoiaio, a tannery that, for more than 30 years, has been producing hand-made leather products. A quick stop in the workshop will make you go back in time.  

After a long chat with Max, get back on your Vespa towards Livorno. The coastal road is quick and the seaside air will accompany you, including what seems to be the bluest part of the sea. This area is known as the Etruscan Coast, where you can stop at Calafuria for a quick dip, then cross the quiet village of Quercianella, have a coffee at Ginori in Castiglioncello, and then take the SP39 highway towards Cecina. At the end of the day, when you reach San Vincenzo, spend the night at the organic farm Podere l'Agave. For dinner, head back to the sea and dine at Serendipity, a restaurant overlooking the beach and serves great seafood.

The next day, head inland to Suvereto, a medieval village reported to be among the most beautiful in Italy. The magic that reigns among these buildings is extraordinary. The search for the best workshops continues; leave the Vespa in the central square and go to Diego Daddi, a craftsman who uses a personal tanning technique. His work begins with drawing, cutting, then the various phases of assembling to the final product with beautiful stitching. From contemporary or traditional shoes to bags and purses; the air in Diego’s workshop tells of centuries and centuries of tradition – a sensational experience you’ll want to remember.

From here head towards Pienza, getting there by following the highway that goes through the Abbey of San Galgano, until reaching Val d'Orcia. The village is a jewel of Renaissance architecture and planning, designed to be the "ideal city" by Enea Silvio Piccolomini who then became Pope Pius II. Stop for a platter of local cold cuts and a glass of red wine at Sette di Vino. Then move into the workshop of Valerio Truffelli, right in the centre, where leather is the absolute protagonist of a centenary tradition. After visiting Valerio, stay for the night. Let the day slip away admiring a warm and romantic, breath-taking sunset.

There is no other place to end this tannery trip than in Florence, where history tells us that whoever took care of tanning and leather processing – since 1282 – was registered with the Guild ‘Arte dei Cuoiai e Galigai’. But just before the final stop, make a detour to Chianciano Terme and visit the Legatoria Koinè workshop, a magical and timeless place. The company belongs to brothers Francesco and Cosimo Riccio, whose shared passion for leather, paper, handmade books and diaries has become their simple and refined trademark in which the traditional art of Italian bookbinding survives. Bookbinding is performed with an ancient technique that requires great skills: the object is first covered with layers of very thin and light leather, so that it perfectly fits the surface to be covered, and then it is decorated and engraved – an amazing process.  

It is therefore time to head north where Florence awaits. Get on the highway, go past Monte San Savino and begin driving along the River Arno that leads you straight to the centre of Brunelleschi and Bramante’s city. Dedicate the afternoon to visiting the Pierotucci leather factory, just outside the city, but remember that the leather goods workshops are concentrated mainly in the area from Ponte Vecchio to Santa Croce – the same area where the activity has been carried out since the 14th century. Right in Santa Croce, you will see many historic workshops – both large and small. Among these, check out the fifth-generation Bruscoli Pelletteria which is dedicated to typography and bookbinding, and the historic Artigiana Viviani workshop. The last two stops won’t disappoint when concluding this fantastic journey in discovering Italian excellence.