Food

Three Days in Salento, Enjoying Orecchiette and Gourmet Cuisine

A culinary itinerary through some of the most popular resorts of Southern Puglia, between tradition and innovation
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Duration: 3 days

Itinerary: from Brindisi to Otranto, about 170 kilometers in total

Equipment: sunglasses, beach towel and everything you need to take a dip in the sea

Salento is a pearl of rare beauty which has conquered the hearts of many tourists in recent years – thanks to good music, breathtaking beaches and unforgettable scenes, but also excellent culinary tradition. Leaving the so-called "heel of Italy" without indulging in some of the local delicacies would be inexcusable.

The gastronomic tour of Salento will start from Brindisi, so fasten your helmet, get on your Vespa and get ready for three days of pure pleasure for the palate. After breakfast at Pasticceria Artigiana, where you can stock up on traditional sweets and cakes recommended by the owners, have a coffee or cappuccino and drive along the sea up to the Monument to Italian Sailors, a structure built in the 30s to pay homage to the fallen of the First World War. About 53 meters high and in the shape of a rudder made of carparo, a chalky solid stone of a beautiful golden colour, it looks over the port – a striking building that is absolutely worth visiting.

Then, return to the town centre, park your Vespa on the boardwalk and take a relaxing stroll around, with perhaps a side trip to the Temple of San Giovanni al Sepolcro and a photo by the Roman columns situated near the Cathedral. Now, you might feel a little hungry, so take a seat at The Numero Primo wine bar and have a wonderful lunch overlooking the sea. It will be impossible to resist the temptation of tasting taralli and friselle, as well as fresh prawns and other seafood specialties, so don't even try. All accompanied by a glass of fine Vermentino or, alternatively a Rosé of Tenute Rubino, the Torre Testa, made from the native grapes of Susumaniello. Take a post-lunch walk to burn some calories and then get on your Vespa towards Torre Guaceto.

After just half an hour, you will find yourselves immersed in a beautiful nature reserve. Park and begin to look around: the colours of the sea will leave you speechless. Nature reigns supreme here, except for some small beach resorts with small bars and deck chairs. If the weather permits, sunbathe a bit and maybe take a dip in the clear waters. Get back on the saddle and head towards your accommodation: the Masseria il Frantoio di Ostuni, a welcoming structure with true Salento spirit, where you will find a cosy room and everything you can expect from the most authentic Apulian cuisine: orecchiette and strascinati pasta served with tomato sauce and meatballs. Everything is rigorously homemade, accompanied by a glass of Negramaro, to be tasted against the backdrop of the farm’s olive groves.

The next day, you’ll probably be tempted to remain in this haven of peace for at least a month. Get up anyway and resume the trip for a short visit in the town of Ostuni, the white city, known for its charming old town. Take some photos, maybe have a coffee, and then off to your next stop, Lecce. The journey will take a good hour and a half, thus making it lunchtime once you arrive. Go to Primo Restaurant, a gourmet place where you can taste the cuisine of young chef Solaika Marrocco, winner of the Birra Moretti Grand Cru Award 2017. You can count on Italian cuisine served among the specialties; For example, beer glazed Turcineddi with orange onion jam – a great reinterpretation of a classic Apulian recipe prepared with quinto quarto (offal).

Devote the afternoon to visit the city. Piazza del Duomo, home to the Metropolitan Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta, is without any doubt an obligatory stop to admire the richness of Lecce’s Baroque architecture. Then go to the central Piazza Sant'Oronzo, where you can observe the ruins of the Roman Amphitheatre built in the Augustan age. It was completely rebuilt during the reign of Emperor Hadrian, then concealed until the early decades of the twentieth century when it was found and excavated. Get back onto your Vespa and drive about one kilometre to reach Palazzo Massari, the wonderful bed & breakfast which will host you for the night.

Time for a shower, and maybe a quick nap, and you will be ready for the evening. Get a table at the Bros restaurant, the revelation of brothers Floriano and Giovanni Pellegrino and young pastry chef Isabella Potì. The menu here rediscovers the ancient traditions of the area, playing on unusual flavours and proposing recipes like the ricotta forte, a unique fermented ricotta with a unique tang. From licorice sweetbreads to spaghetti cake, the gourmet dinner will eventually come to an end. Get some rest and prepare for your final day of the trip.

When the sun rises, it’s time to say goodbye to Lecce. Turn on the Vespa and head towards Torre dell'Orso, which you will reach in about 40 minutes. The goal: to indulge in a relaxing morning on one of the most beautiful beaches in the area. Of course, many other tourists might have had the same idea, so hurry to find your own space, spread your beach towel and enjoy a few hours in the sun. After a dip or two, and despite the last 48 hours of great culinary satisfactions, your stomach will rumble. Make a quick stop at BarH84, and order a nice puccia, the famous local sandwich stuffed with every possible delicacy.

Ride your Vespa towards Otranto, the final leg of your journey. This charming town, besides being known for the formula "O for Otranto" shouted for decades in every episode of the Wheel of Fortune, holds a fascinating Castle built in the 11th century, which inspired the very first Gothic novel in history ("The Castle of Otranto by Horace Walpole, published in the second half of the 18th century). Visit it and find some time to see the Cathedral of Santa Maria Annunziata, before sitting down at a table in the Classe80 restaurant to order a feast of raw fish; There is no better way to end the high quality culinary experience in Salento.

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