Food

Fall in Love with Pantelleria’s Breathtaking Landscapes and Passito Wine Tastings

The perfect itinerary to discover the wonderful Sicilian island
SHARE THE STORY

Here's the perfect itinerary to discover the wonderful Sicilian island in all its delicious complexity. At the table, of course, but not only.

Duration: 2 days

Itinerary: a tour intertwining the island’s natural beauty and wineries, about 51 kilometres

Equipment: plenty of space for tasty souvenirs, sunglasses and sunscreen

Sun, sea, and the warmth of Sicilian tradition, with one of the most loved and highly sought after sweet wines in Italy. The island of Pantelleria is an ideal to way to immerse yourself in a Mediterranean dream. Get around on your Vespa, where your eyes and lungs can absorb all its austere beauty, made of imposing rocks, secret gardens and courageous vineyards that challenge the sea winds proudly. Once on the island, head to your dammuso accommodation, a typical native construction, built of stone and with an unusual domed roof. The choices are plentiful; one option is the pretty Resort La Casa dei Fiori. Leave your bags in the room, put on your sunglasses and get on the Vespa. The goal? To discover the charm of this gem halfway between Sicily and Tunisia, starting with its refined Passito wine.

Moving through the streets of the island, lined by rows of picturesque stone walls, you’ll immediately notice the curious shape of the vines. Here, Zibibbo grapes are grown in a cultivation technique where the bush vines neatly stand a few meters from one other, resulting in a vineyard that resembles a chessboard. These grapes are, in fact, the only type which can resist the strong sea winds. Don’t hesitate to take a photo; you’ll want to immortalise the vines, to pay tribute to their tenacity and the people who look after them.

Make a visit to the Khamma district, where you should have booked a visit at the Donnafugata Winery. It’s undoubtedly one of the most popular labels in Sicily, which also produces the exquisite Ben Ryé (literally the "son of the wind") in Pantelleria. Taste it (albeit in moderation because you will soon resume the journey) and allow yourselves to be seduced by the local delicacies that will surely accompany your glass of Zibibbo Passito. The Tumma is a good start; it’s a fresh cheese with a delicate flavour that you will find practically everywhere, from the aperitif to snack, appetizer or stuffed fresh pasta. Before saying farewell to Donnafugata – and taking home a bottle as a souvenir – visit the Giardino Pantesco that the winery donated to the FAI (environmental fund) in 2008. It is a circular stone fence which holds a valuable fruit tree within, protecting it from winds and weather. Enter and become enchanted by this secret, micro world.

The nibbles that accompanied your first wine tasting should have appeased your hunger. But if not, go to the nearby bakery Panificio Terremoto, where you can buy pizza, focaccia and arancini. Once full, approach the eastern coast of the island and admire the Arco dell'Elefante; the cliff makes a curious shape where an arch dips down into the sea in front of your eyes, resembling an elephant trunk. Park your Vespa, sit and contemplate it and indulge in some selfies. Don't worry, everybody does so.

After having admired the sea, more rest and relaxation awaits you in your dammuso accommodation. With food being a big part of this trip, an unforgettable dinner is in the plans... and just a few steps outside your door. Book a table on the terrace of the resort and let yourselves be pampered by the wind and atmosphere of the Pantelleria night and explore local traditions – a perfect balance between land and sea cuisine. Bluefish will certainly be on the menu as well as couscous. But make some space for Pantelleria Tumma cheese stuffed ravioli with mint leaves, and the Sciaki Sciuka, a kind of caponata made from courgette, aubergine, pepper, onion and tomato. To top it all, you will find the romantic Bacio, consisting of two flower-shaped pancakes, joined together by a sweet cream filling. Stay up late and enjoy the island evening all the way, and without worry... it’s worth it.

The next morning, get on your Vespa and explore the rest of the island. Immediately resume the tasting tour and head towards the Tenuta Coste Ghirlanda, where you will discover the magic of Pantelleria capers, homemade jams and especially craft oil. Once you have tasted the wonders of this charming resort, get back onto the saddle loaded with enticing souvenirs and enjoy a walk in the National Park of the island of Pantelleria, established in 2016.

Continue to Lago Specchio di Venere (Mirror of Venus Lake) in the northern part of the island. This natural basin fed only by the rains and springs hidden inside, with waters that can reach temperatures of 50 degrees Celsius, will leave you speechless. Taking a stroll around its shores and stopping for the occasional photo will be just what you need to fully embrace Pantelleria’s natural beauty.

Sunset will be coming so be sure to first enjoy a tour of the Marco De Bartoli vineyards, another historic label of the land. Admire the sun going down slowly almost touching the Zibibbo saplings, while tasting the Bukkuram, an amazing Passito, rich in fruity notes. Just remember to drink in moderation, of course! For dinner, remain in the area and go to Al Tramonto restaurant. Here, you can taste the best local cuisine stylishly revisited on a terrace with a lovely view of the sea. The perfectly happy ending to a perfect day.

Top